Camber/Caster/Toe Setups & Trick
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Midwest240sx :: Forums :: Technical
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Camber/Caster/Toe Setups & Trick
One of my forum buddies from New Hampshire said something about adjusting camber and toe and caster on a drift car. Hes Ryan Tuerk's friend/mechanic and knows too much about cars. Heres what he said (directly copied)
"...Also, camber will be affected by the amount of caster you are running. Because the loaded tire is actually counter steering into the turn, instead of turned in, you have to make some adjustments from a strictly road race/autox setup...
With out modifying your subframe/rack location, this is the BASE set up I would recommend for track use, which would be very different from daily driver set up...
FRONT:
Caster: ~6 to7*
Camber: -2 to -4*
Toe: 0 to 1/8"overall toe OUT
A decent trick to use, is setting your front wheels to full lock, and adjusting the theoretically loaded tire to as close to vertical(0*), and then setting the other side using the same method, afterwards, check with wheels pointing straight forward, and equalizing any difference.
REAR:
Camber: 0 to -1*
Toe: 0 to 1/16 toe IN
For the rear, if you have adjustable arms, many people will adjust the forward traction arm inward, as far as it will go, as this will give you a decent feel when running smaller slower speed courses... as you gain speed on the course you are running, you can adjust it out, as you will want less movement of the wheel under suspension compression...
Try some of these settings out... then make adjustments from there, to suit your car to your own preference."
and something like this for a daily driven drift car
Front:
Castor: ~6
Camber: -2*
Toe: 0
Rear:
Camber: 0 to -1
Toe -1/16(in) to 0
..just thought it would be nice to post this info on this forum too
"...Also, camber will be affected by the amount of caster you are running. Because the loaded tire is actually counter steering into the turn, instead of turned in, you have to make some adjustments from a strictly road race/autox setup...
With out modifying your subframe/rack location, this is the BASE set up I would recommend for track use, which would be very different from daily driver set up...
FRONT:
Caster: ~6 to7*
Camber: -2 to -4*
Toe: 0 to 1/8"overall toe OUT
A decent trick to use, is setting your front wheels to full lock, and adjusting the theoretically loaded tire to as close to vertical(0*), and then setting the other side using the same method, afterwards, check with wheels pointing straight forward, and equalizing any difference.
REAR:
Camber: 0 to -1*
Toe: 0 to 1/16 toe IN
For the rear, if you have adjustable arms, many people will adjust the forward traction arm inward, as far as it will go, as this will give you a decent feel when running smaller slower speed courses... as you gain speed on the course you are running, you can adjust it out, as you will want less movement of the wheel under suspension compression...
Try some of these settings out... then make adjustments from there, to suit your car to your own preference."
and something like this for a daily driven drift car
Front:
Castor: ~6
Camber: -2*
Toe: 0
Rear:
Camber: 0 to -1
Toe -1/16(in) to 0
..just thought it would be nice to post this info on this forum too
Nomuken9- Number of posts : 16
Age : 34
Location : Lawrence, MA
Vehicle : boobs
Registration date : 2009-01-20
Nomuken9- Number of posts : 16
Age : 34
Location : Lawrence, MA
Vehicle : boobs
Registration date : 2009-01-20
Midwest240sx :: Forums :: Technical
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