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clutch pedal sank!

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slo40sx
fastSRmedic
Bassboy3313
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clutch pedal sank! Empty clutch pedal sank!

Post by Bassboy3313 Mon Mar 15, 2010 11:22 am

Hey. I noticed that my clutch pedal releases right off the floor now. It used to release a lot higher. I am wondering what this could be?
Bassboy3313
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clutch pedal sank! Empty Re: clutch pedal sank!

Post by fastSRmedic Mon Mar 15, 2010 11:25 am

Low clutch fluid, bad master or slave cylinder...
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Post by slo40sx Mon Mar 15, 2010 3:50 pm

check all the things fastSRmedic said, it happened to me to and the slave was bad, it eventually just popped out and the pedal stayed down, not good lol
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Post by 93sapphirecoupe Mon Mar 15, 2010 5:29 pm

yep ive seen both go bad. i put new of each of them in fast medics car
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Post by Adrian_S13 Mon Mar 15, 2010 6:55 pm

try bleeding see what happens. if nothing then yes replace slave and master theyr cheap lookin at like 45 for both maybe
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Post by Bassboy3313 Mon Mar 15, 2010 7:40 pm

i added some fluid cuz it was low. the pedal releases way up high now. i also noticed a fluid stain coming from the bottom of the master cylinder like it was/is leaking a little bit of fluid. its coming from there the master bolts (with the 2 bolts) to the firewall. would this be a bad master cylinder? how hard is it to replace?
Bassboy3313
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Number of posts : 238
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Post by fastSRmedic Mon Mar 15, 2010 11:28 pm

yep ive seen both go bad. i put new of each of them in fast medics car

Why thank you! clutch pedal sank! 42136

I'd keep an eye on that leak. If you have to keep adding fluid and you notice it keeps coming from there I'd say that's your problem. Master isn't too hard to change, just have to drain the fluid, swap the unit, refill and bleed the system. First things first, keep an eye on it.
fastSRmedic
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Post by fastSRmedic Mon Mar 15, 2010 11:29 pm

Although the slave went with your trans then correct? I don't have any of your driveline I think.
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Post by 93sapphirecoupe Tue Mar 16, 2010 5:25 am

none of my drive line but i left the slave in the car. i couldnt tell you what jeff did though lol
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Post by Bassboy3313 Tue Mar 16, 2010 9:02 am

ok. this morning when i left for school, i got in the car to start it and the pedal sank back. i jumped out and checked the master really quick and it is still full of fluid like it was yesterday.

so .....????
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Post by 93sapphirecoupe Tue Mar 16, 2010 9:50 am

prob the master failing internally or the slave doing the same
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Post by Bassboy3313 Tue Mar 16, 2010 11:50 am

so would you recommend installing JUST a new master or BOTH the master and slave?
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Post by DockSide55 Tue Mar 16, 2010 12:14 pm

just do both. they are not expensive. btw, if you leaked fluid on the car id suggest washing that off. that fluid leaked on the chassis is a recipe for rust.
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Post by 93sapphirecoupe Tue Mar 16, 2010 12:16 pm

they are both fairly cheap. its kinda cheap insurance just to do both. i would suggest getting a stainless line to remove the stupid damper right before the slave too.
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Post by Bassboy3313 Tue Mar 16, 2010 12:21 pm

dockside55 - i will surely do that. thanks for the tip.

93sapphirecoupe - where can i get the stainless line with the fittings and is it hard to remove the damper? how much more stiff will the clutch be without it?
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Post by Bassboy3313 Tue Mar 16, 2010 3:12 pm

well, i bought a slave and a master from advance auto. it said it wasnt in stock so ill have to call and see when it will come in. im gonna be doing this on friday with a friend.

i am wondering where i can get the line used to replace the damper box from? anybody?
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Post by 93sapphirecoupe Tue Mar 16, 2010 3:13 pm

http://www.enjukuracing.com/nissan-240sx-clutch-lines-misc-c-2_88.html

i dont think you will be able to notice any more stiffness but that damper can cause issues. its only there to reduce driveline shock. my clutch would slip sometimes before because of that stupid thing. plus it makes bleeding the clutch easier
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Post by Bassboy3313 Tue Mar 16, 2010 6:43 pm

damn! is there a way to get the line at a local auto parts store? i have to do this friday and i wouldnt get this part in time if i order it online.

EDIT: would this work? http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_Clutch-Hydraulic-Hose-Tru-Torque_18650777-P_238_R%7CGRP60006_1000936215___#
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Post by 93sapphirecoupe Wed Mar 17, 2010 1:49 am

as long as its the same size and length. but thats something you can do later. just do the other things in the mean time to get your car on the road again!
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Post by Bassboy3313 Wed Mar 17, 2010 6:52 am

can anyone tell me the length it needs to be, so i could measure the line at advance auto parts to see if it will work? i would appreciate it. i cant find any thread that actually tells you the length or size fittings.
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Post by Bassboy3313 Wed Mar 17, 2010 4:15 pm

i took a look and it turns out it already has the damper box delete. the hard line is pretty bent up, but still works. ill prolly end up switching out all the lines for braided ss lines in the future. also, the clutch went back to how it was originally, but will still be doing the mast and slave install.
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Post by Bassboy3313 Fri Mar 19, 2010 10:09 pm

I just got done installing the new clutch master cylinder and the new slave cylinder. the clutch is back to normal but releases very high. im gonna look into adjusting it.

would someone be able to tell me how to adjust the clutch so it releases about half of its full travel?
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Post by Vlad Fri Mar 19, 2010 11:16 pm

There is an adjustment thing on the top of the pedal. Should be really obvious when you look at it.
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Post by Bassboy3313 Sat Mar 20, 2010 9:29 am

im guessing its just the lock nut on the plunger arm of the master that i need to loosen? then twist the plunger arm to adjust the pedal throw?
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Post by Bassboy3313 Sun Mar 21, 2010 3:49 pm

it worked!! LOL. thanks everyone.
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