Car stalls!!!

When I get to a red light the car just dies. At first I had a boost leak since the bov flange snapped off the hot pipe. I just got done replacing the hot pipe and got a fresh weld on the flange. Checked all lines for leaks and nothing anymore. So that's taken care of and cars runs much better and pulls nicely, but the car still stalls at red lights. It starts with no problem and idles at 900-1000 most of the time then just drops to 0 and dies. Anyone have a similar problem or any suggestions as to what it might be?

does it start right back up when it dies?

Sometimes it dies and starts back up on its own, but other times I have to start it myself. It always starts back up with no hesitation.

hhmmm. ok. i was going to say it could have been your alternator, but thats not the case. my car would do shut off at a red light too, but it turned out my alternator didnt have enough juice. my battery was running off its own power until it died, then it would recharge itself just enough for me to start the car again until the next light. lol.

Does your BOV just vent to the atmosphere or does it recirculate? Does this happen if you're in high RPMs and then just pop it into neutral? Since our cars run on MAF, if you have some boost then drop the RPMs, say by putting it into neutral coming to a stop, the air in the I/C and piping gets vented by the BOV but it was already metered by the MAF sensor, so the car typically runs mega rich momentarily and stalls. Used to happen to me all the time till I switched to recirculate my BOV. Could this be correct?

My bov is recirculated.. i drove it for a while today and it stalled twice and after that it would only drop to about 500rpm and then go right back up to 1k and be fine. It usually happens when I'm in high rpms then drop it in neutral. I checked the spark plugs and they are fouled out. I'm going to replace them tomorrow and hope that fixes that problem. Unless I have a boost leak somewhere else and have yet to find it. Shit's frustrating.

vacuum line.

Seafoam the intake via vacuum line. It'll clean all the crap and carbon out of the IACV as well as the rest of the intake manifold.

Just my .02

WD

It also might be you're coolest temp sensor my friend car had that problem didn't have a check engine light on but had a coolant temp code on the ECU s13 do that lol

check for codes best is with consult cable and software

if not possible

check signals out of

MAF
Tps
and does it run rich

if so check front O2 sensor