Selling the 240, sad day

So I am officially putting my 240 up for sale. I got accepted into medical school in Maine, so next August I'm moving out there for 4 years. Seeing as the school is right on the coast, it is going to be cold and snowy about 10 months out of the year. I have the rest of the summer to enjoy my car, but I figure I'll put it out there for sale now and wait for a good offer. I'm very sad to see it go, I didn't even own the car an entire year. It's just time for me to grow up

As many of you know, it's an 89 hatch that was brought up from North Carolina. I bought it June of last year, and have done a good amount of work on it. The frame rails are super clean, as is most of the car. It has a 93 S13 blacktop SR which bent a conrod about 2 months after I bought it, and I rebuilt the motor with forged internals and had it bored 1mm over. The new engine has less than 5k miles on it. Mechanically, I'd give the car a solid 9/10. I haven't tuned it since the rebuild except playing with the SAFC, but it runs beautifully. At idle the AFR is always .9-1.1, light throttle it's in the low .9s or high .8s, and WOT it hits around .79-.82 which is GOLDEN. Could use a slight touch up at WOT; sometimes it hits rich spots but it is not at all in desperate need of a tune. I would give the body a 7.5/10. It is a 21 year old car, so it has some scratches and paint fade spots, but again, nothing needing tremendous attention. I've been to a couple JDM shows and I always get tons of compliments about how clean it looks. We all know how many 240s from Chicago are rusty as hell or frankensteined together, and this is neither of those.

Engine:
Stock block bored .040" or 1mm over stock
Probe Industries SRS Forged pistons, 10.5:1 CR
Eagle H-Beam rods
Stock crank, micro-polished and balanced
Oil squirters removed (more oil flow to the head, and forged pistons don't need the added cooling)
Cosworth 1.5mm HG
Ferrea +1mm Intake and Exhaust valves
BC dual wound valve springs
Garrett GT2871R .64 A/R Turbo
Tomei Expreme downpipe
Godspeed intercooler and piping
HKS SSQV2 BOV w/ option for recirculating
Nismo 740cc injectors
Plastic intake to head gasket/spacer (prevents heat soak into the intake manifold)
CXRacing aluminum radiator and dual 12" electric fans
Walbro 255 lph fuel pump
SARD adjustable FPR w/return line
Z32 MAF
Egay Catch can
Apexi N1 exhaust (no cat, no resonator, sounds super mean)
Fidanza 11 lb. flywheel (resurfaced when I did the rebuild)
Exedy Stage 2 clutch (replaced when I did the rebuild; less than 5k miles on it)
Aluminum 1 piece driveshaft
Complete R32 Skyline GTS-t rear end - 4.36:1 Final drive ratio, beefy 5 bolt axles
Touge Factory tuned ECU
Apexi SAFCII for running E85
Apexi AVCR Boost controller
AEM UEGO Wideband
Autometer Ultralite II Boost and Oil pressure gauges
Battery relocated to trunk
Turbo timer

Suspension:
F: Tein Basic coilovers/R: GAB SS Shock and coil
Tein adjustable tie rods
Egay F and R strut tower bars

Wheels and tires:
Enkei EVO5 18x7.5 +45, Hyper black w/ blue strip on lip
Goodyear Eagle F1 F:225/35, R:245/35

Other:
Kenwood CD player w/ front auxiliary input (not sure of model, will double check)
Audiobahn 8" sub in a sealed box
Sony XPlod 250 Watt 2 channel amp for subwoofer
Full interior
Carbon fiber hood w/ hood pins
Sparco 4 point harness on driver's side
Egay steering wheel on stock hub (horn and signal cancellers do not work)
Warlock Alarm system w/ disabler and remote start (yes, clutch bypass for remote start) and 2 remotes

I'm sure there's more stuff I'm forgetting. This car can be used for drift, autocross, time attack, or daily drive like I did. It's currently running E85, and I would recommend keeping it that way. I have hit 24 psi with no knock at all, even with the high CR. It can be switched back to run gasoline, but I would keep the boost lower if that was the case.

As it stands, there's nothing seriously wrong with it. It has minor issues, like any SR 240 that's 20 years old. The speedo only works about 50% of the time. I was told it was a bad diode in the gauge cluster, not the VSS. I tried another cluster and it did the same thing. Tach works perfectly. There is a small grind when downshifting from 3rd to 2nd, so I typically just skip it when downshifting coming to a stop. I'm trying to track down a synchro kit, so it may be fixed by the time of sale. The CF hood has some cracks in it; they were there when I bought the car. Apparently the heat from the turbo sitting right under the hood cause small cracks to form. You could just paint over it and you wouldn't even see them. The weather stripping around the hatch is bent in one spot, but it does not cause any leaking into the trunk at all. That's all I can think of as far as issues; like I said, the car is in really great shape.










I'll take more pics tomorrow if it's not raining. I really don't want to part the car out, I'd like to sell it as a whole. I'm going to try to buy a Jeep or other 4WD car to take with me that can survive the winters in Maine. I'm in no rush to sell it, so I'm going to wait till I get a decent offer. I bought the car for $6,000 last year, and put another $3,000 into the motor alone, plus other stuff. I'm asking $8,500 OBO for the car. I guarantee if you come see the car and let me take you for a drive you'll agree that it's worth that much. I see bone stock SR20 S13s go for $5-6k, so around $8500 seems reasonable to me. Spread the word, if you have any friends looking for a solid car, tell them to check this one out. You can contact me by email or phone. Email is brimcnick AT gmail DOT com. Phone is (708) 674-4238. Thanks everyone.

Brian

sad to see you have to sell it. i can vouch for the no rust. i personally drove the car up from north carolina in dec of 05. it was a NC car its whole life and was minty fresh. i never drove it in winter and im 90% sure the kid i sold it to never did either. idk about medic though. dont part it out! lol one of if not the most rust free 89 around.

Thanks man, yeah it sucks having to sell it so soon. I thought about buying a second car and storing the 240 over the winter but then someone told me it pretty much snows 11 months out of the year there, so that's a no go. Still super rust free, so I'm glad about that. Just a sad day...

you prob wont get your money back out of it. maybe just store it while your at school its only like 40 a month at most places

Bump, price drop. $8,000 OBO. Now I'm losing money, happy sapphirecoupe?

how much power does it make? that may help the sale

does it haul ass?

It does haul ass. And I don't know how much power it's making, never had it dynoed since the rebuild. The guy I bought it from claimed it made 365HP @ 18psi, so if that's true now it should be making around 385 @ 20psi and over 400 @ 24psi. It can easily handle more than that with bigger injectors and a bigger turbo. I built the block to handle 700HP.

More pics:

Hump day bump. $8k OBO

Still for sale, $7,000. Someone come steal this car for that price.

Also taking trade offers. I'm looking for a reliable DD and some cash on top. Anyone interested?